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Buying The Best Mount For Your Rifle - EuroOptic's Scope Mounting Guide

Scope mounting is a very important but often overlooked aspect of assembling a rifle. It is the connection point through which two important (and often expensive) parts of any shooting system are mated, the rifle and the optic. I’d like to take this opportunity not only to remind you how important it is to purchase quality mounts for your rifle, but mainly to assist you in deciding which options are best for you. Whether it be a hunting rifle, target rifle, or a tactical rifle; there are several things to consider when purchasing mounts. Though the basic concepts overlap, let’s look at tactical rifles.

Rail is sloped forward to angle the scope down to utlilize more of its existing travel. Many rails are 20 MOA, but there are models out there with anywhere from 10 MOA to 60+ MOA. The 20 MOA slope angle is almost hard to see on this rail, with a circle being made up of 360 degrees—20 MOA, for example only accounts for 1/3 of 1 degree.

There’s no strict definition when determining what a tactical rifle is, but unlike most hunting rifles, a tactical rifle has a heavy barrel, a stock designed for stable prone or field/pack shooting, and an optics system with high magnification and precision reticle. As a result of these rifles being made to shoot extreme distances, a picatinny rail with some slope is an ideal base for scope mounting. So, 0 MOA, 20 MOA, or more….what do you need? Fortunately, figuring this out requires very simple math and a ballistic calculator of your choosing. Personally, I like to use JBM’s website or my Kestrel with Applied Ballistics. For the sake of brevity and simplicity I'll only be using MOA as the unit of measurement for these calculations. 

  1. Input your load data if you don’t already have it. 
  2. Look at the drop of your bullet at the furthest range at which you’d like to shoot and make note of it.
  3. Take your scope’s total travel and divide by two then subtract by 5 (5 MOA is a safe number to account for travel lost when zeroing)

That number will be your scopes approximate usable elevation if put on a 0 MOA mount. You may add the slope of a rail/mount to that earlier figure to get more usable travel. Let’s get an example here. Let’s say you have a scope with 80 MOA of total travel. (80 MOA / 2) - 5 MOA = 35 MOA. The 35 MOA remaining is the usable travel if mounted on a flat rail. But what if you have a 20 MOA rail? Simple, add 20 to 35 to get 55 MOA of usable travel. Consult your data or ballistic app to see where your bullet drops to either 35 or 55 MOA. For example, my M24 .308’s drop about 35 MOA at 900 yards. So to get to 1000, I'd need to get a sloped rail.

Some one piece mounts have MOA also known as slope built into them to assist in gaining more useable travel in the scope. This Era-Tac easily helps us see that visually. While nearly all one piece mounts will have a fixed MOA setting, usually 0 or 20, the adjustable mount above can show us what 0 and 70 MOA look like.


How about we up the ante a bit? Let’s pair a .338 Lapua Magnum with a Schmidt Bender PMII 5-25. That scope has 26 mils of travel. Converted to ~90 MOA. (26 mils equates to 87.75 MOA—the 90 is for the sake of easy math in this example). The 338 Lapua Mag. is a very capable long range round and people often take it beyond 2000 yards. So how do you set this one up? Let’s go through the math. (90 MOA / 2) - 5 MOA = 40 MOA. On a 0 MOA mount/rail, you’ll be able to shoot to 40 MOA, which is roughly 1300 yards for that round, depending on load of course. So what’s to stop you from just putting an absurd amount of MOA into the rail or mount to dial that scope farther? Well, the scope has that finite amount of travel, so if you put too much slope into the rail/mount, you’ll tip that scope forward to the extent where you can no longer get a close range zero. If you want to get a zero at, say 100 or 300 yards, you will want to be sure your overall slope on the rail/mount does not exceed half the scope’s travel. In this case, 40 MOA being the adjusted halfway point.

So let’s see how far we can get with that 338 Lapua Mag. while still getting a 100 yd. zero. Whether we put a 20 MOA mount on a 20 MOA rail or a 40 MOA mount on a 0 MOA rail, we would like to get to 40 MOA as the total slope, since we subtract that 5 MOA. So 40 MOA is the adjusted half, plus the 40 MOA in the scope mount gives us 80 MOA of usable travel we can expect. For an average 338 Lapua Magnum load, bullet drops 80 MOA at about 1900 yards. To be able to dial further, more slope would be needed, although you’d start to sacrifice a closer range zero.

As for the height of the rings/mount, there are some general patterns to follow. But first, we need to define what height really means. For picatinny rings or mount, height is measured from the top of the rail to the middle of the scope tube as seen below (this is also known as center-line height). A flat top rifle like an Accuracy International AXMC or AR type rifle requires a higher ring/mount than, say, a Sako TRG due to the rail on the AXMC essentially blocking the scope from being mounted in lower rings. In short, a scope with a 56mm objective is best served with rings/mount between 1.375 and 1.5” tall (35-38mm). That serves to get the scope at a height that will comfortably clear scope caps as well as the rail itself. I have seen 1.25” high rings work on 56mm on full length rail but I do not suggest it as it yields less than 1mm of clearance between rail and scope. For 50mm objective and smaller 1.25”-1.375” will be fine. Also, night vision and thermal clip on’s are typically set up so ring/mount height of 1.5” will line up perfectly, though it is generally okay if the scope is not in direct alignment.

More traditional set ups like that TRG, Accuracy International AT, or other rifles who’s rail only goes over the action, not further forward, can do with lower rings. For heavy barrel rifles, a 56mm will fit in 1” tall rings. 50mm should be in about .885”, 44mm and below you can essentially go as low as you can and it’ll clear the barrel. For thin barrels, there may be a bit more room, situationally depending, but not that much. A 56mm on .885” tall will clear with thin barrels.

For other rifles whose dimensions are rather unique, like the Christensen Arms MPR or Savage BA both with step-up rails, there are ways to measure to ensure your scope will fit. If you have the scope and rifle, you can accurately figure out how to determine what height is needed. Place the rifle down on its side and place the scope above it in what you’d consider the ideal height. The best ways to then measure the height is to either measure from top of rail to center of tube, or measure to bottom of tube then add the radius.

For example, you place the scope over the rifle and measure the ideal spot at 0.5 inches between scope tube bottom and the rail. Convert and round that to millimeters, in this case to 13mm since most tactical scopes’ tubes are in millimeters. If scope tube is a 34mm diameter, add half that (17) to the 13mm to get 30mm ideal height. Convert back to imperial to get 1.18”. From that, you can browse the nearest set of rings or a mount that’ll be nearest that dimension. Best to go with a slightly higher one if you determined the 30mm height was absolute lowest and the 1.18” isn’t available.

In semi auto rifles, like AR15 and AR10 styles, the mounting height is going to be very similar to the suggestions on the AXMC example. However, there is one extra wrinkle. For AR15 style, a cantilever mount is usually required. The reason for this is because mounting a scope for correct eye relief typically has the eyepiece right over the charging handle and the front part of the tube gets pushed out over the handguard. It is not usually a good idea to mount a ring to the handguard because it can flex a little, the ring that holds the front part of the tube needs to slant back and be secured to the receiver. That is why a cantilever mount has the forward offset.

Is a cantilever mount needed on an AR10 style rifle? Not usually, due to the longer receiver, but you can play it safe by getting cantilever or take some measurement with the eyepiece over the charging handle and see where the scope’s tube ends up. For height, 1.3"-1.5" is what I suggest for 99% of scopes. The reason to not mount a scope lower, even if it will physically fit, is because an AR style rifle’s stock puts your face too high to be able to comfortably use a scope lower than about 1.3”. For rifles like the Springfield M1a, and others, there is not standard solution so use the method of positioning the scope over the rifle rail and measuring.

There are some exceptions to these figures. One of which is the use of the Era-Tac Adjustable Inclination Mounts. The reason for this is when you slope a scope forward in a mount with, say, 20 moa built into it, the objective of the scope it pitched down a tad. Not an issue with 20 moa mounts if the previously mentioned suggestions are followed.  The Era-Tac can go to 70, though, necessitating a higher mount to compensate. To get to the 70 moa mark on the mount while having your objective clear a full length flat top rail, best to opt for the 1.65” tall model. The other exception is for scopes with objectives larger than 56mm.  Though few, they are out there. Notably, the Hensoldt 6-24x72.  The objective on that scope has a radius 8mm wider than a 56mm objective scope. Converted to imperial, a mount would need to be .31 inches higher than the suggestions mentioned earlier. 

While these suggestions cover the vast majority of set ups out there, please remember not all rifles and scopes are the same. Scope position fore and aft in the rings/mount will matter, as well as the odd ball scopes, like ones that have objective mounted parallax adjustment. Eurooptic has a photo album on the Facebook page showing various scope, mount and rifle combos for you to browse. We would also love to have any submissions to help assist others in what fits and what will not. If you have any questions at all feel free to contact Eurooptic staff and we will get you squared away. 

Comments (32) -

  • Robert Ekins

    3/12/2019 2:34:05 AM | Reply

    I have a scope with a 34mm tube, 56mm objective and 127.5 moa total internal travel. I would like to mount it on a Tikka TAC A1 with a full length picatinny rail using an ERA-TAC  adjustable inclination mount set at 50 moa. Will a 1.65"/42 mm high mount (SKU: T2064-0025) provide enough scope to rail clearance? Incidentally, I recently purchased an ERA-TAC adjustable mount (set on 40 moa) for my Tikka CTR from you and love it. Keefer was very helpful with that purchase. Thank you.

    • EO

      3/12/2019 7:13:20 AM | Reply

      Hey Robert, thanks for stopping by. 1.65" should clear almost any 56mm on a flat-top - so you should be good to go. We're happy to help, and I'll tell Keefer that he didn't screw that one up. ;)

  • Ron Garmon

    4/20/2019 6:43:57 PM | Reply

    I've purchased a leupold mark5hd 6x25x56 and want to put it on a christensen arms 300 win mag(Hunter series). Ive tried leupold rings and rail base with an epic fail.. shoots 6 inches high at 50 yds.. please help

    • Derek

      4/22/2019 9:24:33 AM | Reply

      Hi Ron,
      Judging by those numbers, I bet you have a 20 moa rail on that rifle.  It may still be usable, as the Mark 5 25x has 120moa/ 35mil of travel.  When I shot one on a 20 moa rail it was 10" high at 100, meaning about 6" at 50 like yours.  The trick on those is to remove the top turret and use a flat head screwdriver or similar tool to click "down" as far as you need to go.  Sounds like you need to come down about 10 moa/ ~2.8 mil.  Try 40 clicks down if moa, 28 clicks down if Mil.  this will be clockwise if looking down at your turret from the back of the rifle.  Leave the turret off until you are happy with the zero.  If you have any questions feel free to reach out!  -Derek

  • Edward

    1/7/2021 12:26:54 AM | Reply

    I have a Barrett mrad smr in 308 I’m looking at getting a Steiner T5XI 5-25x56. I’m curious on the ring height or if I need a cantilever mount.

    Thank you.

  • Aaron

    3/2/2021 10:16:26 AM | Reply

    I own a Sako A7 7mm and I Mark 5 5x25 and I am looking for the best mount to complete this project any suggestions?

    • Derek

      3/2/2021 11:13:03 AM | Reply

      Hi Aaron,

      Id do talley part number PSM252001-Talley for the rail itself, then a picatinny ring of your choosing that is 35mm tube and 1" tall.  Badger, Seekins,  Leupold all offer ones like that.  Thanks!

  • Clay

    8/16/2021 1:03:47 PM | Reply

    I have a CA MPR in 6.5PRC w/20MOA rail, with a Leupold 5-25x56 Mark 5. What height rings would be the lowest I could go for this setup?

    • Derek

      8/16/2021 2:58:52 PM | Reply

      Hi Clay,
      I would say 1" is the lowest you can get away with on this.  Shoot me a message via our email and Ill reply with a photo of what that looks like on that rifle (well, modern precision pistol really but same deal.)


  • Larry S. Harris

    10/2/2021 10:17:59 AM | Reply

    I would like to mount it on a Tikka TAC A1.I recently purchased an ERA-TAC adjustable mount (set on 40 moa) for my Tikka CTR from you and love it.

  • Corey Hineman

    12/11/2021 12:16:42 AM | Reply

    Best mounting system for the CA MPR 6.5 creedmoor and Leupold mark 5HD 3.6-18×44 MIC3 , much appreciated.

    • Derek

      12/13/2021 9:13:23 AM | Reply

      Hi Corey,

      That scope has 29 mils ~100moa of travel.  With the included 20 moa rail on the rifle, youd have about 65 moa of usable travel if you just put rings on it.  Depending on load, thats enough for a 6.5 creed to get to about 1600-1700 yards or so and still easily get a 100yd zero.  If thats satisfactory, then for ring height, basically find the lowest you can.  Seekins, Leupold and Badger will all offer rings around the 1" tall mark.  Lower rings arent really possible due to how big that 35mm tube is.  Hope this helps.  Thanks!  Reach out if needed.  


  • Robert Fowlkes

    12/20/2021 7:04:26 PM | Reply

    I have just purchased a Christensen Arms MPR IN 300 PRC and NightForce 7-35x56 MOA. Would you recommend the correct rings. I am looking to shoot a new AR plate that I hung 2300 yards. Thank you!

    • Derek

      12/21/2021 10:45:36 AM | Reply

      Hi Robert!

      Thats a far poke for the 300 prc!  My initial data suggests about 110 moa of drop on that.  yours may be a little different.  In order to keep a 100yd zero id opt for a 30 moa mount, giving the total slope of rail and mount to 50 moa.  Good thing is, I have heard numerous reports that the 7-35 actually clicks out to about 110-115 moa.  if so youll have a little extra room but may be using the reticle for a few MOA of drop at 2300.  Check this mount.  www.eurooptic.com/...m-30-MOA-Low-Scope-Mount.aspx

  • Stan

    1/25/2022 1:14:35 PM | Reply

    Looking to set up a Primary Arms 6-30x56 (34mm tube) with the Apollo BDC reticle on my 6.5CR Savage 110 Ultralite.  I like the Talley one-piece rings but they max at .60 for this application.  If my measurements are correct it’s tight but should work.  Any recommendations would be appreciated!

    • Derek

      1/25/2022 4:21:55 PM | Reply

      Hi Stan,

      .60 to the bottom of the tube right?  Thats how Talley's one piece rings are measured.  For that rifle that should fit with a decent bit of clearance, may even be able to down a tenth or two as well.  Id double check your figures, measured to bottom of tube when its hovered over the action in the ideal height to be sure.  -Derek

  • MGraff

    2/10/2022 12:41:01 PM | Reply

    What about a Nightforce NX8 4-32x50 F2 on a 40 MOA Nightforce rail with 1.00 rings on a Bergara HMR 300 PRC? Based on the formula, it would get exactly a 100 yard zero with 0 MOA left of adjustment. Cutting it too close?

    • Derek

      2/10/2022 12:58:03 PM | Reply

      Hello, You will be fine.  The -5 is just a safety figure and from what I have observed, NF scopes do actually have a few more moa/mils than they are supposed to.  Just remember you may have to move the zero stop out of the way when bringing that group down when zeroing.  -Derek

      • MGraff

        2/10/2022 1:36:44 PM | Reply

        Sounds great! Thank you!

  • John

    6/27/2022 11:01:20 PM | Reply

    I have a Christensen Arms MPR 338 Lapua with a Vortex Viper PST II 5-25x50 FFP scope and would like to reach 2000yrds. Any recommendations for this would be greatly appreciated.

    • Derek

      6/28/2022 10:15:59 AM | Reply

      Hi John,

      Tall order for that optic only because of the travel it has.  (70 moa).  My data shows about 85 moa of drop on a 300gr scenar to 2000y.  That rifle has 20 moa base.  You could do another 20 moa mount, totaling 40 but you will give up closer in zero.  You can either zero at a further range, or zero at a closer distance, then simply measure how high your impact is since you wont be able to dial the shot down.  If I were to guess id say youd be about 5 moa/1.5 mil high if you zero at 100y.  If you have a ballistic app, or device, youd be able to enter a zero height.  This is where youd put how far above the zero your impact is and the app will give you accurate calls from there on.  Out close to 2000y you will max your turret in the other direction, then rely on the reticle for the remaining 10moa/3.5 mils or so.  this is a lot to text so if you want, just give me a ring.  Thanks!

  • Gardner Nathan

    9/15/2022 10:33:22 PM | Reply

    Hey there, thank you so much for all the great info and knowledge. I just bought a CA Traverse 300 WSM with a 0 MOA rail on it for my elk hunt.  I’m putting a Sig Sauer Sierra 6 BDX 3-18x44 on it. I’m kinda fond of the Vortex Pro Rings but any advice a super tough super light set of rings. Lastly what height rings would say would be the best for my setup.
    Thank you in advance for your time.
    Nate G

    • EO

      9/19/2022 7:13:32 AM | Reply

      Vortex, Nightforce, Seekins, Spuhr rings/mounts will all do exactly what you're after.

      With respect to height, with a Rem700 profile barreled action like what you have with the Traverse, you can get pretty low, but generally we recommend starting with Medium height (give/take 1.0") before going any lower. That usually will give you clearance for protective scope caps as well.

  • Tyler Bradford

    10/10/2022 12:46:20 AM | Reply

    I have a Tikka CTR in 6.5cm and I'm looking to mount a 34mm Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56 scope on it to shoot ~1000yds. I've been having a hard time determining which Spuhr ISMS 1-piece I need. I was recommended the model with 13mil cant and 38mm high since "that will definitely clear" a 56mm objective, but I'm curious if I can go with one of their shorter models for my rifle or if I can go with less cant to get to 1000yds to not affect zeroing at 100yds. Any recommendations on MIL cant and ring height for my scope/rifle?

  • Alex

    10/26/2022 5:47:59 PM | Reply

    I have a DD5 V7 (flat top) for deer hunting. Looking to put a Sig Sauer Sierra 3 BDX 3.5-10x42 on it. What ring hight would you recommend? Prefer a cantilever

  • Nick F

    7/27/2023 9:54:27 PM | Reply

    Hey there and thanks in advance for your help! I have a Browning X-Bolt Speed in 300 win mag / vortex viper pst gen 2. I originally purchased Talley light weight rings in low. I'm having round ejection issues (round bounces off turret and back into chamber). What do you recommend purchasing instead?? Again, really appreciate the help!

    • EO

      7/28/2023 7:50:14 AM | Reply

      Probably best to bump to medium but not higher. There's a personal element here with regard to how low you prefer your cheek weld; speaking for myself, I like to keep low as possible and would be willing to tolerate a little bit of ejection trouble rather than try to "float" on the scope. Your mileage may vary.

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